Still Room for Tradition

For a long time, I’ve been griping about the seeming takeover of the obscure and the complicated. (See what I mean?) The trends in food seem to be toward odd ingredients and complicated processes. It’s as if there is some sort of one-upmanship in cooking with things like squirrel and alligator and making foams and dusts. Finally, I feel somewhat vindicated, if the New York Times can vindicate someone. The article today in the Dining section spoke directly to the trends and the constant return of the classics of days past, Julia Child’s days,  Jacues Pepin’s days, Escoffier’s days, even Savarin’s days.

I’m going to make a Tournedos Rossini this weekend. In honor of Rossini’s birthday today (Feb. 29, 1792).